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 This is what they looked like when I received them.
Alright, so, the first obvious thing to do is to remove the original struts.
This how I did it. You may have a better way.
Jack up the car.
Place another jack right under the knuckle.
Jack up the knuckle a little to compress the spring coil.
Use coil compressors to keep the coil from expanding.
Remove the sway bar end links ( This system is under load now).
Now you can loosen the three nuts at the top of the shock tower.
Also loosen the two big bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle, but DO NOT remove'em yet.
If you think the parking brake is going to be on the way, disconnect it from the caliper.
Start lowering the jack from under the knuckel (SLOWLY!). The spindle and strut assembly will start comming down.
When you see that the coil spring hat is off the shock tower you can stop.
The strut should now be loose. Now, you can remove one of the bolts, grab the strut with one hand so it does not fall
on top of the CV joint boot and ruin it, and with the other hand remove the other bolt.
You should be able now to pull the strut forward with a right (or left) twist motion to free the braket from the knuckle.
This is really the hardest part. From here on, is a piece of cake.
Next to do is to get rid of the strut coil seat. I used a sawsall, but you can also use a cut-off wheel.
After the majority of the seat is gone, there will be a weld bead you have to smooth out in order for the sleeve to fit over the strut.
I took off the thickest with a metal grinding wheel, being careful not to let the strut become too hot. It's filled with NITROGEN you know.
I had a wet rag near by to quench after a few passes. Then I used a big file to smooth and contour to perfection. A light coat of metal grey Rust Oleum followed.
Then, is just assembly time!!! I fed the included washer over the top of the strut to make a better seat for the sleeve and then the threaded sleeve went over. But then...
*Pitfall #1
The threaded sleeve DOES NOT fit snugly over the KYB strut. This really bothered me. I guess I was supposed to receive some O-rings to fix the
potential problem but didn't. So, my solution to the problem... 1/32" rubber fiber gasket material. To cover the entire surface of the strut.
With the gasket in place, I inserted the sleeve over it and VIOLA! Play was gone.
*Pitfall #2
The aluminum hat that sits on top of the strut was next. I was also bothered by the fact that there was nothing keeping this thing from flopping around and
potentially making noise. My solution... Plastic tie wraps. Fed through the two holes on the cap and tied to the upper coil (showned above). This way the only way the hat
will move is if the whole coil spring comes off the strut tower. (something very unlikely to happen).
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 Strut without the seat Coil-over assembly complete
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As you can see, the strut was striped completely of the factory coil spring seat. It is now smoother than a baby's bottom. As a matter of fact, you can't tell there was a seat there once. Can you?
Installation was a snap. Just reverse all the steps outlined above.
You'll be surprised how much room you'll have to work with now.
Plus everything is so light now too. I bet I lost at least 20 pounds all together. And that, is always good.
And now, a shot of the the end product.
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 I don't know about you but, doesn't it look COOOOL?
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There still snow out here in Wisconsin, so first chance I get I'll post some insights and reactions as to how the Fiero Formula LT1 handles now.
I know, I know, I can't wait myself.
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A MONTH LATER...
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OK, so, I finally took her out for a drive and tested the new coil-over setup.
Problem #1: The coil was too short. The support ring was already at the top
of the threaded sleeve and the car looked like it had been lowered 3". The coils
I received were 8" long and clearly not the length I needed.
Problem #2: The rate (in lbs), on the coils was too low. I received a 275lb rated spring
and with the weight of the LT1 was clearly way too soft. The result, bottoming completely on
any pot hole I ran over. This got transffered straight into my spinal column... Ouch!
The solution: Ordered a new set of springs rated at 325lbs and 2" longer.
The result was excellent! There is plenty of travel back there now. It does not
bottom if I stand on the trunk. The ride is not stiff but solid. Cornering is steady
and precise. I am happy with this setup. Next will be the front end also to coil-overs and dropped spindles.
I will also post the detail here. So stay tuned!
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REFERENCES: Ground-Control Suspension Systems
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